Baltic Visitor

I have spent a lot of time in Latvia recently, and have visited a lot of hotels. Within Riga and Jurmala, accommodation tends to be overpriced although there are some very good places to stay. Elsewhere, the choice tends to be limited and there are a lot of acceptable but unexciting options for around 20Ls ($38 or €28). In both cases, there are a handful of exceptional hotels which are also good value for money. Although it is not by any means an exhaustive list (there will be more on Riga another time, for example), here are five of the more interesting options which come to mind, in no particular order:

1. Homestay, Riga. OK so this isn’t actually a hotel – as its name suggests you are staying in someone’s home. Nevertheless this is the place I stayed the last three times I was in Riga, and it will be my top choice next time too. Why? Well, it’s a lot more affordable than a decent hotel for one thing. More importantly, owners Ric (from New Zealand) and Diga (Latvian) are incredibly welcoming and helpful. When I first arrived I was greeted with a beer, and the hospitality lasted throughout my stay. Ric’s tours of the surrounding area are justly famous, as are the Homestay’s breakfasts. It’s true that the the place is out of the centre – it’s in the upmarket Mezaparks district about 20 minutes by tram from the Old Town – but that really isn’t a problem. Be warned that the Homestay books up months in advance.

2. Jurmala Spa, Jurmala. I have stayed here a couple of times now, and would definitely recommend it as a treat. It’s in a Soviet era building which has been refitted in a slightly retro style. There is a huge menu of spa treatments, which are of high quality and cheaper than in most of Western Europe but not by a huge amount. There is also a decent pool and a range of saunas – basically, if you don’t want to walk the five minutes to the beach then you never need to leave the hotel.

3. 4 Spārnu Iebrauktuve, near Bauska (website in Latvian only – click ‘Kontakti’ for contact details). This one is a really unexpected gem, a spacious old building with comfortable modern rooms. In addition to room only deals, they do special packages which include extras like aromatic baths and dinner up on a balcony above the excellent restaurant. Speaking of baths, some of the rooms have windows in the bathroom (with blinds for privacy if you need it) so that you can laze in the tub while watching TV in the main room. These rooms are also split-level, with the bed on a small upper floor. Outside the hotel is a windmill with a bakery on the ground floor, and guests are welcome to have a go at making bread.

4. Dikli Palace, near Valmiera. A wonderfully restored manor house which would be perfect for a romantic weekend break. The rooms include late 19th/early 20th century furniture and tiled stoves, and are full of character. Best of all, the prices are very reasonable. Realistically you’ll need a car, as it’s a bit out of the way.

5. Fontaine Hotel, Liepaja. A budget choice, but one which is quirky enough to be worth checking out. The reception is in a junk shop full of strange odds and ends, and the smallish rooms are all themed – including an Elvis Room for true fans of the King. The communal area in the basement gives the place a backpacker feel, but it also prides itself on being child-friendly. The hotel is owned by eccentric Danish rock musician Louie Fontaine, who also runs the city’s best music club and will soon be opening a more upmarket hotel called the Hotel Fontaine Royal.

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